Velvet gets a makeover


Velvet, the cult classic, is getting a makeover this season, with fashion brands like Sabyasachi, Torani and Shruti Sancheti giving the fabric a new twist. As the sumptuous velvet sets of designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s Instagram feed bring us to a halt, Torani’s exuberance makhmal sarees instantly inspire a desire to shop. Even internationally, velvet seems to be the flavor of the holiday season. Actor Jared Leto was recently seen in a teal velvet suit on the red carpet at the Gucci House British premiere, which he wore a draped shirt underneath, a diamond pendant and a silver heart-shaped minaudière. Back home, famous fashion influencer Natasha Luthra was seen wearing a velvet blazer by Shruti Sancheti.

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Velvet is a must this season thanks to its fluid drape which makes it a must-have for the holiday season when you want to shine and dance. Think of a wide mix of vintage prints, retro hippie patterns, saturated hues, and old-fashioned wallpaper patterns. In addition, it is no longer the heavy textile that weighs you down. It’s light, flowing and shiny with a neo-bohemian touch.

Stylist Eshaa Amiin suggests wearing it in structured silhouettes like blouses, jackets and bandhgalas. “A plain velvet ensemble can be paired with trendy jewelry, a tight-necked blouse, a striking necklace and a maang tika, “she said.” A Maharani choker could also be a great bet. “

A velvet dress by Shruti Sancheti.
(Courtesy of Shruti Sancheti)

Designer Karan Torani of the Torani brand said that the royal costumes of the Punjab overlords had a penchant for fabric, which was put on the textile map by the Mughals. “Makhmal (velvet) has been an important weaving in the Middle East and Asia since the 15th century,” he says. “For me, this defines my expression of timeless elegance. It’s glamorous but stays away from an overtly opulent blingy statement.

Torani emphasizes a humble richness in the velvet weaves and hails it as “an overall lift”. “You have to tone down the rest of your style for it to really show up and work its magic. For example, if you are wearing a zardozi makhmal doshala (shawl) or printed velvet saree, add flowers in your hair and a pair of emerald jhumkas or a choker. Accent it with a simple kajal and a no-makeup look, ”he suggests. “Less is more. Any additional element or accessory would detract from the beauty of the garment.

The bling is on

Designer Sancheti, who has played with digital screen printing and silkscreen printing on velvet, compares his tactile drop to vaporous georgette. “Its current iteration is not stiff, but nimble like a chiffon allowing movement and freedom,” says the Nagpur-based designer, who recently showcased a velvet halter with a Chantilly lace saree.

According to designer Aniket Satam, velvet has been the precious textile since the era of the Silk Road. “The rich feel and luminous texture instantly make this fabric a staple in evening wear, especially in winter. This holiday season, consider the vintage Victorian palette of pistachio green, dusty pink, lavender with deeper rustic undertones of eggplant merlot and pumpkin orange, ”he says.

The many layers

The versatility of the fabric allows designers from all walks of life to explore and experiment with many silhouettes, from structural draperies to flowing draperies.

“It’s not just an outdoor textile anymore. When used appropriately, with delicate lace and tulle, it can be intimate and sultry. It has a certain Victorian boudoir appeal that harmonizes with our traditional Indian aesthetic, ”adds Satam.

Plus, burnt velvet, commonly referred to as Brasso, will be on trend with some embossing accents.

Neha Gupta of the Ranian label, who experimented with velvet in her festive line this season, highlights her old-fashioned outfits.

While researching a winter wedding outing, the designer explored her multifaceted interpretation, from Mughal wardrobes to Rajputs.

“The Nizams made this textile a precursor for men’s outerwear and since then it has become a popular accessory in ethnic men’s clothing. The rich textile feel perfectly complements the heritage and intricate embroidery, and together the result is classic and luxurious, ”she says. Basically imagine some embroidered velvet shawls that will keep you toasty warm during the holiday festivities and you’ll get the basics right.

For this winter, lush velvet with elaborate embroidery has taken an extra place in festive wardrobes. And a quick glance at the latest collections from labels and fashion brands will confirm this.

Take Nirmooha’s recent collection, for example. Its designer Prreeti Jaiin Nainutia informs that its festive collection includes a hand-embroidered velvet jacket and pants set “that reflects the glam of the 70s”.

An embroidered velvet sharara kurta set by trueBrowns.

An embroidered velvet sharara kurta set by trueBrowns.
(Courtesy of trueBrowns)

Labels like trueBrowns have also featured a variety of velvet sets in burgundy, red and blue tones in their Fall / Winter 2021 collections. Udita Bansal, founder of trueBrowns, says: “The richness that textiles emit as well as the deep shades make it perfect for holidays such as Christmas and New Years Eve.

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