The Filo Milan yarns optimistically returned to conventional formats at the end of September, in its relatively new setting at the MICO exhibition center in Milan. It is obvious that a great deal of reflection has been carried out on the priorities of the exhibition.
The 56th edition was seen as a boost indicating confidence in the future of the entire textile industry, right from the start of the supply chain. In addition, the Filo 365 online marketplace was launched during this edition, “as a concrete and decisive working tool”, indicating the important changes that have taken place during the past year.
Recycling rubs shoulders with first-use yarns. This fact was highlighted by several exhibitors with their own way of incorporating new materials and ideas into their ranges.
For the first time, mesh developments have been allocated their own space. A Filo for Knitwear featured yarns specially developed for knitting, responding to market demands, said its designer, Gianni Bologna, who has long been skeptical of the value of creating fashion trends every season.
A renewed emphasis on knitting as a smart and versatile way to interpret trends, using circular and flat systems, has inspired many major factories for seasons 2022 and 23. The new knitting space, A filo for the maglia embraced several well-known names:
Azeta Filati, Cotonificio Olcese Ferrari, Elasten, Filatura Alma, Fil 3, Filmar, Filpa 1974, Garanti, Ghezzi, Ilaria Manifatture, Linificio e Canapificio Nazionale.
Linen and hemp have been the subject of demand across the board at this summer’s shows across Europe, as companies seek environmentally friendly disposable yarns with strong fashion credentials for a natural look. but sophisticated. Several spinners responded. Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia with her premium and high quality yarns for weaving, knitting and jersey showed yarns carefully combined with moods and times.
Objectives of the Filo Flow project
Filo has reinforced its firm commitment to sustainability, especially in the trend area Filo Flow which is intended to be at the center of sustainability; most companies have joined. Filo’s approach includes encouraging sustainable criteria for environmental and ethical supply chain processes.
Asahi Kasei promoted Roica and Bemberg in ecological terms, highlighting various fashion collections using Bemberg which are the result of a circular smart technology process with cotton. Zerobarracento is an emerging gender-neutral outerwear brand that focuses on developing zero waste products by creating kimonos, quilted jackets and wrap dresses; Likewise, the new brands Maurizio Miri and slow fashion Waxewul aiming at ecological products choose it.
TICA Yarns is a new range chosen by I Cotoni di Albini Spa, of the Albini Group, specialized in the production of high-end yarns made from noble, durable and traceable fibers.
Recycling takes off
Recycling rubs shoulders with first-use yarns. This fact was underlined by several exhibitors with their own way of incorporating new materials and ideas into their ranges; companies like Linsieme and Monticolor recycle raw materials derived from renewable energies. Recycled wool fiber obtained from pre and post consumer clothing, and color selection is always done by hand.
For the winter season 2022/2023, Filatura C4 presented a new collection in recycled wool, Recyplus, which includes 41 colors, in stock. GRS certified.
Italfil presented classic and technical yarns for underwear and for circular knits while for sportswear they added a line mixing wool with recycled and compostable fibers.
Avia has developed classic and novelty yarn types with GRW Global recycled certification into a range of eco-sustainable blended yarns. Filatura Astro reuses a variety of materials, recovering over 2,000 tonnes of pre- and post-consumer dyed cotton and wool rags, involving over 2,000 tonnes of post-consumer dyed cotton and wool.
Filatura C4 also recycled glitter polyester which captured a current mood for shine and party looks, a certified 1/14 recycled polyester collection
New products attract
The Trend Area has been completely redesigned to retain the characteristics that attracted visitors, making it a working tool for buyers. It was meant to be an explosion of colors and materials, like the first space experienced by visitors.
A few big names took part in the edition; Lenzing showed various fibers and innovations in line with sustainable development; Tencel with Refibra technology recycling post-industrial and consumer cotton; Tencel Modal Indigo with dope dye fiber for denim; Tencel Luxe which is a continuous lyocell yarn to meet the needs of the silk industry and Tencel Carbon Zero – Eco Clean. Tencel yarns are already used in various products in the fields of textiles, clothing and furnishings, which are now also found in agriculture and biodegradable packaging.
Roica showcased a contemporary wardrobe with the first sustainable cycling uniform made with Scott Racing Team, Wolford’s Aurora collection, denim clothing from G-Star Raw, and tights from Sarah Borghi.
A series of discussions centered on the philosophy of sustainability, arguably trying to pin down the elusive meaning and contemporary attitudes, took place in the exhibition’s networking area. One of these dialogues focused on the production process adopted by the Lenzing Biorefinery, led by Carlo Covini, Lenzing Business Development Director.
“Dialogues with Nature” was led by designer Tiziano Guardini, with a new approach to fashion named ECOuture based on the concepts of “tailoring, innovation and respect”. Experimentation centered around the search for special materials that are particularly durable and cruelty-free, search for treatments, shapes and contents linking ethics and aesthetics.
The importance to the dyes and dyes supply chain is obvious; sustainability needs consistency from the start, and for a few years now a group of dyers have been present, presenting environmentally friendly products, explains Filo.
Davifil pursued its goal of sustainability by researching natural colored summer and winter yarns. Tintoria Mancici manufactures dyes for natural fibers and one of the specialties of the company is cashmere tops and flocks, especially for luxury fibers, cashmere wool, alpaca, vicuña and silk. Colors have shifted from undyed appearances to paler eco-friendly pastel greens and flashes of bright, shiny red elements.
E-Filo – 365 Days of Yarn – continues online at: